Roses vs. Rosas in Buenos Aires’ Green Lungs

In 1975, Buenos Aires’ government transplanted Rosas for roses when it inaugurated El Rosedal de Palermo in the land that belonged Juan Manuel de Rosas.

As years passed by, Los Bosques de Parlemo, and specially El Rosedal, became one of porteños favorite place to spend the sunny weekends: walking along the park, running, playing soccer, skating, sitting down reading the paper or a good book, or simply drinking mate with pastries.

This park, also known as Parque 3 de Febrero was designed and inaugurated November 11, 1975 by the architect and landscaper Carlos Thays; the park carries its name in commemoration of Casero’s Battle of 1852, when the Ejercito Grande commanded by Justo Jose de Urquiza overthrowned Juan Manuel de Rosas and took his lands away from him. The government passed a decree that made the lands public domain, and transformed them into the beautiful green areas we can see and enjoy today. (Registro Oficial de la Provincia de Buenos Aires -Años 1831-1859 (Pag. 416). Decreto Nº 1.474/852. ) ”Declarando que todas las propiedades pertenecientes a D. Juan M. Rosas existentes en Buenos Aires son de pertenencia publica.” Buenos Aires, Febrero 16 de 1852.).

Personally, I find it curious that Rosas´ old residency is now well known for its labyrinths of roses that host up to 12.000 blossoming flowers in the Spring. Years ago, these lands were the scenery of heated conflicts, while today they are synonym of harmony, sweet smells and tranquility.

How to get there:

These 300 hectares of green parks are located between Av. Del Libertador, Salguero, Av. Rafael Obligado and Pampa.

Train: Station “3 de febrero”

Buses:

Av. Del Libertador and Dorrego: 10, 34, 36, 160, 166

Plaza Italia: 12, 15, 21, 29, 36, 37, 39, 41, 55, 57, 59, 60, 64, 67, 68, 93, 95, 11, 118, 128, 141, 152, 160, 161, 188, 194

Subway: Line D

Rosedal hours open to public:

Summer: 8.00 to 20.00 hrs.

Winter: 9.00 to 18.00 hrs.

Palermo, the Forever Creative Neighborhood of Buenos Aires

When I was small I used to walk through Palermo Viejo so I could go play in the park. With my small legs, it was torturous to drag my tricycle through broken sidewalks with old and neglected houses.

Around that time, the architects Jorge Hampton y Emilio Rivoira had already started to remodel the area, although most of the changes were unnoticeable. It wasn’t until the mid-90s that those early XX century houses with ample spaces, high ceilings, picturesque balconies with forged bars, began hosting decoration stores, clothing boutiques, specialized restaurants, and boutique hotels.

Little by little the neighborhood started to change until it transformed itself into the epicenter of Buenos Aires’ bohemian-contemporary movement; an area where artisans, clothing-designers and artists get together at Placita Cortazar to sell their accessories, paintings, bijouterie and other crafts.

Some people believe this artisans and artists are a new addition to the neighborhood. However, Palermo’s neighbors say that since the beginning, this neighborhood was tranquil and creative; a place where people got together to chat and have intellectual talks in plazas, cafes, clubs and neighborhood associations.

At the same time, there are stories that try to explain how the neighborhood got its name, although there is no official story. Some say Palermo carries its name because years ago they used to venerate the Virgin of San Benito de Palermo there.

Others say that the Chief of State Juan Manuel de Rosas gave this name to the first lands he bought in the area because his mistress thought of Sicilia every time she looked at the stream that ran through it.

The most popular story assures that the neighborhood carried this name to honor chacarero (person that dances chacarera) Juan Domigno de Palermo, the first owner of these lands.

I doubt we will be able to ever know the exact precedence of this neighborhood’s name, a neighborhood that has been parted and renamed in the last couple of years into: Palermo Holywood to the North of Av. Juan B. Justo, Palermo SOHO, to the South of this avenue, and the rest, simple Palermo.

Nowadays, it is fun to walk through Palermo during the weekends to live and experience the subculture that has been created in this neighborhood. At the same time, there are good and varied restaurants where you and eat and spend some pleasant time with your friends.

My favorites:
La Baita–Italian Restaurant
Thames 1603 (Thames y Honduras)
Price: Around $25 per person

Gardelito – Argentinean food
Thames 1919
Price: Around $25 per person

How to get there:
Bus
Córdoba and Scalabrini Ortiz / Cabrera and Scalabrini Ortiz:
140, 106

Plaza Italia / Güemes and Borges:
12, 29, 39, 68, 152

Plaza Italia / Charcas and Borges:
111

Placita Cortázar:
34, 36, 55, 93, 161

Metro
Line D to Plaza Italia


More about the neighborhood:

• Palermo’s day: June 25. Decree 43.653 (B.M. Nro. 18.587 of 02/08/89).
• Story of how Julian Gallo’s house turned into a restaurant.